Vologda lace: features and weaving techniques, history of the creation of whooping lace. Vologda lace: past, present, future Techniques for weaving lace

28.04.2024

Vologda lace is known for its exquisite beauty and unique patterns far beyond the country's borders. Lacemakers spend many hours of painstaking work with bobbins to weave airy patterns and ornaments, creating unique products - napkins, tablecloths, hats, capes, umbrellas, capes and much more.

In the article we will tell you where this type of art came from in Rus', how the work is performed by lacemakers, what a novice craftsman needs to know about bobbin weaving, what materials need to be prepared in order to start making even simple lace items.

The art of weaving Vologda lace requires perseverance, manual dexterity, patience and accuracy in work. Even a small mistake can ruin the appearance of the product. That is why craftsmen use a special pattern called skolok. We’ll tell you how to create it and work with it a little later, but now a few words about the history of Vologda lace.

Traditions

French and Italian masters invented thread weaving back in the 16th century. Such products were brought to our country by Russian princes who were fascinated by airy lace. The tradition of making wicker patterns was continued by craftsmen from the Vologda province. The first mention of Vologda lace dates back to 1820. The serf craftswomen made decorations for clothing and linen for the landowners.

At first, women copied the patterns of Western masters, but over time they began to embody their own creative ideas in lace. The number of masters grew every year, as did the popularity of such art. Factories were opened that produced products for sale in St. Petersburg and Moscow.

The technique of weaving Vologda lace began to be taught in specialized educational institutions and was passed on from generation to generation. Since the beginning of the 20th century, the artists' works have been exhibited at exhibitions in Paris and Brussels and won gold medals at various competitions.

With the advent of the Internet, anyone can learn how to make Vologda lace. Let us also consider the basics of this folk art. First, let’s find out how this lace differs from any other.

Uniqueness of technology

The main feature of Vologda lace is the presence of a clear separation of the pattern and the background. The ornament consists of smooth, wide curves, reminiscent of a ribbon that winds in a continuous line without intersecting anywhere. These can be images of flowers, birds, animals and even coats of arms or temples. The background remains airy, weightless, and very gentle. As a result, the products are voluminous and expressive.

Folk crafts of Vologda lace are recognizable by the weaving of long braid, which is fastened with “hitches” or “lattices”. Their masters perform them separately with regular crochet. Such laces are called "coupling" laces. Drawings using this technique are more varied. These are not only flowers or floral designs, but also all sorts of fantastic creatures, geometric shapes, images of people and buildings. For weaving, only 6 to 12 pairs of wooden bobbins (thread holders) are used. For woven lace products you will need much more (60 or more).

There are craftsmen - "mernitsy" - who make lace, creating both a pattern and a background at the same time. This is already a “pair” weaving. It is often represented by simple measured pieces of lace. The required amount is cut from the roll to decorate clothes. The patterns in paired lace are simple, mostly rhombuses, triangles, circles and other shapes.

Background elements

There are several options for filling the background for lace:

“Baskets” are parts consisting of dense ovals or squares that fill the voids between the bends of the braid.
“Pleteshki” is a pattern consisting of thin laces woven into an openwork lattice.
The twisted loops on the “braids” are twisted threads that give the background more airiness.

Necessary materials

To work with lace you need to prepare various devices and materials. The threads used are dense and natural. This is cotton or linen.

The main tool for creating the product is bobbins. These are turned or carved wooden sticks, the lower part of which is thickened, and the top has a compartment for winding thread. Each pattern requires a different number of bobbins, so it’s better to buy a whole set (from 60 pieces and above). They are made from maple or apple, spruce or viburnum. Juniper trees will last a long time.

Weaving is done on kuftyr. This is a roller (tube made of fabric) shaped like a cylinder. For convenience, it is located on a stand - a hoop. Fill the roller with straw, sawdust or oat husks.

The finished pattern of a thread pattern is called a skolok. It is drawn on white or colored paper and attached to the roller with pins. Thin "nails" or pins with a bead at the end will hold the threads in place as you work. You will need more than one hundred of them, so don’t skimp on them. Also, to tie the braid with a background, you will need a crochet hook, 0.5-0.8 mm in size.

Pieces of Vologda lace

This is a graphic representation of the future canvas. Without such a weaving pattern it is impossible to make lace. Previously, the entire village collected funds for such drawings, carefully kept them and passed them on from mother to daughter. Now everything is much simpler. A piece of Vologda lace can simply be copied from the Internet and printed on a printer.

For storage, you can attach it to cardboard and put a sheet of tracing paper on top. This will significantly increase its service life, and the white threads will not get dirty during operation. The chip must be life-size. The connection points between the lines in the diagram are where the pins are placed.

How to draw a chip yourself

First, a line is sketched with a simple pencil, which, without intersecting anywhere, forms a continuous pattern. Try making a square napkin. The exact dimensions are not important here, as, for example, when weaving a collar or headdress.

To create an even, wide ribbon, use a poster pen. Trace the line carefully using black ink. This will help you understand how the pattern will look on the product. Then the tape is transferred to another paper through tracing paper using two lines, and traditional broken lines and dots are manually placed between them on which pins will be pinned. Zigzags convey the movement of a pair of bobbins inside the canvas.

Winding thread onto bobbins

Preparation for work includes winding threads onto wooden bobbins. They only work in pairs, but the thread is wound alternately.

Let's take a closer look at how this is done:

Holding one of the paired bobbins in your right hand, press the thread to the narrow place of the wooden stick with your left hand.
A couple of turns are made to strengthen the end of the thread.
Then perform rotational movements with the bobbin so that the thread is evenly wound over the entire surface of the neck. At this time, use your fingers to check the uniformity of tension and its distribution along the entire length.
3 meters of thread will be enough. At the end, a loop is made on which the stick will firmly hold during operation.
Next, you need to unwind the same number of threads from the skein and cut off the edge with scissors.
Its continuation is similarly wound onto the neck of another stick.
When 20 cm of thread remains between the bobbins, a loop is made and the second stick is securely fastened.

Preparing the roller

Before starting work, the chip is strengthened onto the roller. To do this, use thick cardboard that matches the size of the future lace. To prevent it from falling off the jacket, you need to strengthen it with pins on all four sides. Then the chip itself is attached to the prepared cardboard. Next comes the painstaking work of pricking pins into all available points.

Securing a pair of bobbins

The fastening loop ensures free operation of the bobbins in pairs; it firmly fixes the winding. To make it, you need to hold the stick in one hand and pull the thread well with your thumb. The bobbin is wound under it, and the upper part is pulled through the loop to tighten it. All bobbins are strengthened in this way, but the arc is not made long so that the bobbin does not hang below the kuftyr. You need to leave about 15 cm. While working, hold the stick by the middle of the lower handle; do not touch the threads with your hands so that they do not get dirty.

Lace weaving techniques

Before starting work on creating lace, practice the technique of weaving the threads together. A pair of bobbins are hung on a nail from the middle of the thread. Another nail with the next pair of bobbins is attached nearby. Two pairs of sticks with threads take part in the weaving work. All patterns are created by weaving threads together. This happens by dragging the bobbin from one place to another.

Let's look at two basic techniques for working with threads:

Toss or twist. The movement always begins with the right bobbin. The thread from the right side is shifted over the thread of the left stick in a pair. Over time, you should learn to do this movement with one hand, using only your thumb. In job descriptions, such a transfer is designated by the block letter “P.” There may be several turns, then the description will indicate “P-P-P”. This means that the thread is thrown over 3 times.
Cross. Indicated in the pattern description by the letter "C". This technique consists of shifting the middle thread of the left bobbins onto the middle thread of the right ones. The outer threads remain even; they are not yet involved in the work. The bobbins are held with both hands, with a pair of sticks in each. This weaving technique is usually performed after throwing. The description will indicate "P-S". Make sure that the movement is from left to right, that is, the thread on the left should lie on top of the thread on the right. Also, keep the same thread tension in all options.

After reading the master class on Vologda lace, be sure to try to make a light pattern, practice winding the thread onto bobbins, making a fastening loop, throwing and crossing the threads among themselves. Over time, learn to complete small tasks. The matter is not very simple, so you will have to be patient. Good luck!

Vologda lace production began at the end of the 18th century, when Russian lace-making centers were formed and began to develop in various regions of Russia: Galich, Rostov, Balakhna, Kalyazin, Torzhok, Ryazan. And - Vologda!

The first lace factory here was created in 1820 by landowner V.A. Zasetskaya in the village of Kovyrino near Vologda, from where in the second half of the 19th century. lace making quickly spread throughout all the central districts of the Vologda province. And this was facilitated by... the abolition of serfdom: peasant women became more free in choosing their occupation, they were more involved in handicrafts and weaving lace for sale. This production brought additional income to the peasant family. Moreover, lace making does not require any special investments: both lace threads and equipment were inexpensive and anyone could purchase or make them. No special premises were required - in the summer the lace was woven right on the street. Yes, and you can engage in this craft in fits and starts, in your free time from work on earth.

Gradually, lace making became very popular: in 1893 in the Vologda province 4 thousand lacemakers were engaged in lace making, and in 1912 - already about 40 thousand. According to statistics of those years, a significant part of them were teenage girls. They usually began to learn the craft at the age of 5-7 years and by the age of 12-14 they became very experienced craftswomen. But often men also wove lace.

But how highly valued Vologda lace was in the capital’s stores! Cunning traders initially passed them off as foreign in order to increase profits. But this was unnecessary - in terms of their characteristics, the products of Vologda craftswomen were not at all inferior to European ones. In 1876, Vologda lace deservedly received high praise at the international exhibition in Philadelphia. They were demonstrated with no less success in 1893 in Chicago.

The October Revolution undermined the lace industry. But very soon, in 1920, a handicraft section of the Northern Union was founded in Vologda, the purpose of which was to develop the crafts of the peoples of the North in the new socialist conditions. All lacemakers, and by this time there were already about 70 thousand of them, were united in an artel, and a vocational school was founded, which trained craftswomen and instructors in lacemaking. It was in those years that many new patterns and weaving techniques were developed, stories were created for lace products, embodying dreams of a new country.

At exhibitions in Paris (1925) and Brussels (1958), Vologda lace was awarded Gold medals. The highest award, the Grand Prix, was awarded to him at the Paris Exhibition in 1937.

What is the secret of the success of Vologda lace? Since ancient times, lacemakers have woven it by hand, using wooden bobbins, a pin with a pattern, and a special pillow on a stand. The splinter (the pattern according to which the design is woven) is the embodiment of the lacemaker’s skill.

According to the technique of execution, modern Vologda lace belongs to “coupling” lace. In this type of lace, the main elements of the pattern are woven with a long braid, and then connected to each other with special “hitches” and “lattices”, made separately, using a crochet hook. This technique is used in the manufacture of scarves, collars, capes, tablecloths, bedspreads, curtains, and panels.

But there were also craftswomen - “mernitsy”, who wove the so-called. “paired” or “measured” lace, in which the pattern was woven simultaneously with the background, which made it possible to obtain arbitrarily long strips of lace, from which sections of the required length were measured (hence the name).

It is clear that the patterns in chain lace are more varied than in paired lace. These can be geometric shapes, and motifs of flora and fauna (Christmas trees, flowers, fish, birds, deer, lions, peacocks), and fantastic creatures (Sirin birds, unicorns), and natural phenomena (northern lights), and human figures (ladies, gentlemen, horsemen, peasant women in kokoshniks and sundresses), and architectural structures (churches, towers, bridges, gazebos, palaces), and technological achievements (tower cranes, airplanes, spacecraft). Yes, yes, the products of Vologda lacemakers of the 1930s even featured tractors and airplanes - after all, just like their great-grandmothers, they wanted to embody in lace the world that surrounded them.

For a long time, paired lace predominated in Vologda; it accounted for approximately 2/3 of the total volume of production. A great contribution to the development of coupling lace was made by the masters of the lace school (VKS), which opened in Vologda in 1928. So in the 1930s, artist Anna Aleksandrovna Perova-Nikitina and industrial training instructor Kapitolina Vasilievna Isakova developed more than 100 grids for coupling lace. This invention changed the appearance of the coupling lace: it became openwork, since the lattice could now play a leading role in the design. In addition, it was in this way that it was possible to create products combined with fabric, large large objects sewn from many parts.

In 1936, an art laboratory was created at the Volkruzhevoyuz (there was such an organization!), where numerous lacemakers and artists worked on the range, quality, and technology of weaving lace products. Techniques common to all Vologda lace acquire an individual coloring in the work of each master. Thus, the works of K.V. herself. Isakova is developing a chamber lyrical direction. Tenderness and warmth of the images distinguish her panel “Deer”, created in 1968.

A.A. Korableva, an employee of the Scientific Research Institute of the Art Industry (NIIHP), made a great contribution to the development of the craft. She created large stitched works that became landmarks in the development of the industry: the panel “House in Gori” (1949, for the anniversary of I.V. Stalin), the curtain “Jubilee” (1954, for the 300th anniversary of the reunification of Ukraine and Russia ), curtain “Russian Motifs” (1958, at the World Exhibition in Brussels it rightfully received the highest award “Grand Prix”), panel “Sputnik” (1959), panel “Aurora” (1970), panel "Moscow Construction Sites" (1970), etc.

Another well-known name in Vologda is V.D. Veselova, born into a family of hereditary lacemakers. Her mother, grandmother, great-grandmother, and, possibly, distant ancestors were engaged in this trade. A family legend has been preserved that Vera Dmitrievna’s grandmother wove stockings and umbrellas for the royal court to a special order. And the granddaughter’s most famous work is the “Rook” tablecloth, in which the craftswoman embodied the poetry of the image, the completeness of the design and her skill as a lacemaker.

Russian lace is original, diverse in subjects and techniques. But among them there are some who are special. More often than not, it is the products of Vologda lacemakers that we strongly associate with the word “lace.” And this is not without reason - the history of this fishery in the Vologda region is rooted in the distant past and has been striking us with its elegance for several centuries. So, let’s get acquainted: Vologda lace!

Gradually, lace making became very popular: in 1893, in the Vologda province, 4 thousand lacemakers were engaged in lace making, and in 1912 – already about 40 thousand. According to statistics of those years, a significant part of them were teenage girls. They usually began learning the craft at the age of 5–7 years and by the age of 12–14 they became very experienced craftswomen. But often men also wove lace.

At exhibitions in Paris (1925) and Brussels (1958), Vologda lace was awarded Gold medals. The highest award, the Grand Prix, was awarded to him at the Paris Exhibition in 1937.

But the most famous product of Vologda lacemakers is undoubtedly the “Snowflake” tablecloth (by V.N. Elfin), which has become the hallmark of the entire lace industry. And it is no coincidence that the lace association “Snezhinka”, created in Vologda in 1964 and which remains the center of lace production to this day, owes its name to it. Now hundreds of lacemakers work here, continuing to create exquisite lace patterns from the finest threads. After all, even in our computer age, lace remains in demand.

The works of these craftswomen, like dozens of others, are presented in the Lace Museum that opened in Vologda. If you are lucky enough to visit these parts, be sure to stop by. You will not regret. After all, Vologda can rightfully be called the lace capital of Russia.

Photo materials from the Vologda Folk Crafts website were used in the preparation.

"Bride of the North" 2010 Authors A.N. Rakcheeva, Yu.E. Zakharova, E.E. Marochko.

Lace is one of the most amazing creations of human imagination, which originated as a type of decorative decoration of fabric products, and over time enriched the sphere of art, striking people with the luxury of intricate weaves and openwork patterns. Not long ago one of our articles was devoted to, but today we will tell you about one of the types of Russian lace - Vologda lace, which is woven on bobbins (wooden sticks).

Vologda lace combines aristocratic grace and folk original beauty. Ancient weaving patterns and wood carving patterns had a great influence on the development of the ornamental art of lace making. This is especially true for openwork lace “Vologda glass” or “Vologda window” with various “spiders” and “snowflakes” on a through background. It should be noted that initially lace was not woven using bobbins, but embroidered - something in the manner of modern cutwork embroidery. This type of lace making existed mainly in the Vologda district, and it was here that whooping lace making as a craft subsequently developed especially intensively. Therefore, it is no wonder that the name “Vologda” was assigned to lace.

By the way, under the name “ Vologda lace"In the old days, they often meant Russian in general. But meanwhile, Oryol, Tver and Ryazan masters created magnificent works of exceptional beauty, and could fully challenge Vologda’s primacy, but history decreed otherwise.

The history of the creation of Vologda lace

The word “lace” comes from “to surround” - to decorate the edges of fabric products with beautiful trim. Vologda lace making originated in the 16th-17th centuries, and a little later became a folk craft. Scientists believe that lace making, as a type, originates in Flanders, Europe and Italy, from where it was brought to Russia by foreign merchants.

If for the most part Russian lace was colored or had a colored filigree outline, then Vologda lace was almost always white. As an exception, craftswomen made completely colored and metal filigree. Initially, there was no room for a variety of materials used, although over time the craftswomen made some changes to their lace patterns. To weave Vologda lace, homemade linen yarn was used - high quality, but not thin. Therefore, Vologda products, unlike many overseas ones, made of extremely thin threads, were famous for their strength.

In addition to yarn, they used roller or kuftyr, birch or juniper bobbins, various pins and a pattern on paper or scraps, which was invented by local craftswomen. In Vologda itself, lacemakers wove more complex lace: entire wardrobe items or wide measured lace up to 40 cm wide, the creation of which required up to 300 pairs of bobbins and excellent craftsmanship.

Many are surprised that such an exquisite form as lace making originated in the north of our country, in Vologda, but this is not difficult to explain by the flax growing developed in those places and the presence of north-south trade routes, which constantly brought foreign fashion trends into the life of the local population.

Like a fishery Vologda lace making appeared at the beginning of the 19th century - on the estates of landowners near Vologda, serfs began to weave trims for linen and clothing “as in Europe.” At these times, many large landowners' estates were owners of lace factories, which supplied their products to many large cities (Moscow, St. Petersburg, etc.). Here we can highlight the factory of the landowner Zasetskaya, located near Vologda in the village of Kovyrino, whose workers weaved especially thin, but at the same time durable. You can also highlight the village of Chirkovo, which was located opposite the Ust-Kubensky district, where the craftswomen were engaged in stitching work - a kind of hybrid of Vologda lace and embroidery, supposedly arose due to the fact that an embroiderer accidentally came to live with the lacemakers.

Over time, the art of lace making moved into the peasant environment and gradually developed into a category. There is the following data: if in the Vologda province in 1893 4 thousand craftswomen were engaged in lace making, then in 1912 there were already 40 thousand craftswomen. In connection with such rapid development, a professional school of lace makers was opened in Vologda in 1928, then in 1930 the Vologda Lace Union was founded, and in 1935 an entire artistic laboratory was created at the Vologda Lace Union. Vologda lace has repeatedly received top awards at various international exhibitions. In addition, in Vologda there is a museum of Vologda lace, the exhibition area of which is 600 sq.m., where more than 500 items are presented that will perfectly tell you about the foundation and development of Vologda lace making.

Main features of Vologda lace

The main distinguishing feature is the unique large pattern, knitted with thick filigree (thickened thread) in the form of a continuous plain weave (ribbon strip of plain weaving), located against the background of patterned weaving. As a rule, filigree is white, but in some cases colored filigree is also used. Most often, craftswomen use floral patterns, but sometimes they can take the form of such well-known objects as combs, fans or horseshoes.

The most common are expressive forms of patterns with the main motif of a five-seven-petalled round flower. Such flowers can be used on their own or decorate spreading bushes and mighty trees. Among the lush forms of fantastically flowering trees and bushes on Vologda lace you can often find images of birds - fairy-tale roosters and peahens.

There are two types of Vologda lace . In the first version, it is without grids, in which the fabric patterns are closely adjacent to each other, and only in infrequent gaps can you see a grid in the form of oblique diagonal cells made of nets (small oval or square dense shapes) and braids (laces).

The second version of Vologda lace, products from which have been especially popular in recent years, is lace in which transparent lattices play the same role as a dense ornament. This lace organically combines a thick pattern of plain weave with openwork lattices of “spiders”, braids and nets. Patterned lattices in a special way emphasize the rounded movements of the cottonweed, adding an additional decorative effect to the pattern. At the same time, the thick white filigree, which is introduced into the linen, further enhances the unique monumental pattern of Vologda lace.

How Vologda lace is made

For weaving, a technical design is initially applied to thick paper (splinter). Then the chip is fixed on a soft pillow-cushion. In the old days, such pillows were stuffed with hay or sawdust. The design is applied to the chip with lines and dots into which pins are stuck vertically. Vologda lace is woven with bobbins on which threads are wound. The craftswoman tosses the bobbins in her hands, wraps threads around the pins, and as the design progresses, moves the pins to other points.

Vologda lace weaving technique There are three main types:numerical, paired and coupling.

Numerical lace - the simplest type of Vologda. It is made without a pattern; the technique for making it comes down to strict thread counting. Also, when making numerical lace, a small number of bobbins are used, up to several pairs in total.

Paired (multi-paired) Vologda lace is one of the most complex types of lace, which is woven using a splinter. In its production, a large number of bobbins are used, sometimes this number reaches 300 pairs.

Coupling Vologda lace It is also woven along a bobbin line, using 6 to 12 pairs of bobbins at a time. The main element of coupling lace is plain or vilyushka, the curves of which outline the shapes of the lace pattern. The main part of the surface looks like light through gratings. It should be noted that the main difference between chain lace and paired lace is that in paired lace the background and pattern are woven simultaneously, while in chain lace they are woven together using a chain or crochet hook.

Vologda lace combines silk, linen and metal threads. In ancient lace, the lattices were quite simple and looked like threads diagonally intersecting at right angles. Today, as noted, you can find complex patterned lattices with a wide variety of combinations of patterns and designs, as they say, for every taste.

Sazonova Adele, student of the 5th "R" class of State Budgetary Educational Institution Secondary School No. 1354, Moscow

Project topic: Vologda lace

Project goals:

Study the history of this type of fishing.

Learn the peculiarities of making Vologda lace.

Project objectives:

While studying history, draw the audience's attention to folk crafts

Tell about the origin and use of Vologda lace.

Lace as an integral part of the decoration of dresses and lingerie.

Where is Vologda lace used now?

Working methods: search, selection and analysis of information.

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Introduction

Chapter 1. Vologda lace

Conclusion.

Bibliography

Chapter 1. Vologda lace

1.1. Vologda lace as a type of Russian lace.

Vologda lace is a type of Russian lace woven on bobbins (wooden sticks). The richness and variety of patterns, purity of lines, measured rhythms of ornaments, high skill - such is his artistic originality. Vologda lace has a special original beauty. The development of the ornamental art of lace was greatly influenced by wood carving patterns, weaving patterns, ancient embroidery, especially openwork embroidery “Vologda glass” with various “snowflakes” and “spiders” on end-to-end backgrounds. This embroidery was mainly used in the Vologda district, and it was in this territory that the craft developed especially intensively. The Vologda lace ornament is characterized by softly curved smooth lines of the design; it is always graphically clear, rhythmic and can consist of geometric figures or generalized plant forms. Floral patterns are dominated by motifs of flexible branches with loop-shaped leaves, trefoils, round or elongated petaled and palmate flowers, fan-shaped motifs, horseshoe-shaped figures, etc.

Patterns on products are usually located around the circumference with wide borders with a free or ornament-filled middle, go along the perimeter of the product, are collected in stripes of different widths, and can be distributed throughout the openwork background. Compositions are often built from mirror-symmetrical motifs, giving the lace austerity and a special static quality. A distinctive feature of Vologda lace is the wide variety of background lattices. Poems and songs have been written about Vologda lace, films have been created, and colorful booklets have been published. Vologda lace is known all over the world; for a long time it personified the glory of Russian lace.

The word “lace” comes from “to surround”, to decorate the edges of clothes and other fabric items with elegant trim. Lace making has been known in Rus' for a long time. Women of all classes practiced it. The dresses of kings, princes and boyars were decorated with lace made of gold, silver and silk threads; In folk clothing, lace made from linen yarn was used, and from the end of the 19th century - from cotton threads.

The artistic features of Vologda lace developed already in the 17th-18th centuries. Until the 19th century, lace making had the character of a home artistic craft. In the 20s of the 19th century, a lace factory was founded in the vicinity of Vologda, where dozens of serf lacemakers worked. In the middle of the 19th century, lace making on Vologda soil turned into a craft that was practiced by thousands of craftswomen in different counties. This craft was especially developed in the Vologda, Kadnikovsky and Gryazovets districts. Each of them has developed local features of patterns and weaving techniques, its own range of lace products, but only a subtle connoisseur of this art can distinguish them. The lace industry in the Vologda province reached its peak in the second half of the 19th century. If in 1893 four thousand craftswomen were engaged in weaving, then in 1912 there were almost forty thousand. The fame of Vologda lace has crossed the borders of the country. The fashion for it has spread to many European countries.

A distinctive feature of traditional Vologda paired lace is a clear division of the “structure” of the lace into a pattern and a background. As a result, large and smooth forms of the ornament are very expressively highlighted by a continuous line, even in width throughout the entire pattern. In early Vologda lace, stylized images of birds, trees of life and other ancient motifs characteristic of embroidery of more ancient origin varied as the leading ornament. Today Vologda lace is distinguished by a variety of ornaments, monumental forms and a predominance of floral motifs.

The Vologda fishery has received wide recognition both in Russia and abroad. The talent and skill of Vologda artists and lacemakers have been repeatedly noted at many international and domestic exhibitions. In 1937, at the international exhibition in Paris, the Vologda Lace Union was awarded the highest award - the Grand Prix - for the novelty and artistic execution of lace products; at the Brussels exhibition in 1958, Vologda lace was awarded a gold medal. And in 1968, the leading artists of the Snezhinka production association were awarded the State Prize of the RSFSR named after I.E. Repina. The oldest lacemaker K.V. put a lot of imagination, creative work, and high skill into her work. Isakov, famous masters of their craft E.Ya. Khumala, V.V. Sibirtseva, Honored Artists of the RSFSR V.D. Veselova and V.N. Elfina. Many of their works are kept in the country's largest museums.

The features common to all Vologda lace in the work of each master acquire an individual coloring. Thus, the works of K.V. Isakova is developing a chamber lyrical direction. Tenderness and warmth of the images distinguish her panel “Deer”, created in 1968. It depicts spruce trees and galloping deer. Measured repetitions of figures, their arrangement in rows, a clear pattern with a relief outline against the background of a light through lattice, like flying snowflakes and the white color of linen threads - all this gives rise to the image of a winter forest immersed in silence.

The creativity of V.D. is diverse. Veselova. A hereditary lacemaker, she perfectly knows all the secrets of lace making, which allows her to create small household items and decorative panels at an equally high artistic level. One of Veselova’s unique works is the “Rook” tablecloth. It combines all the best features of the artist’s work: the poetry of the images, the nobility of the design, the wealth of developments in detail, the refinement of the technical execution of the lace, its indispensable conditioning by the content and nature of the ornament.

The Vologda association received its name in 1964 after the tablecloth “Snowflake” by another outstanding lacemaker, V.N. Elfina. Her work gravitates towards monumental compositions and large forms of ornament. In 1978, Elfina performed the panel “The Singing Tree”. It symbolizes spring and the flowering of nature associated with its arrival, the awakening of life, and the polyphonic singing of birds. The lush Tree of Life is dotted with flowers and birds sitting on it. The dense pattern is contrasted with a light openwork background. The combination of gray and white threads gives the panel a silvery tint.

Vologda lace today is primarily the Snezhinka lace company, where professional lacemakers and experienced artists work; this is a vocational school where future lacemakers are trained, as well as additional education institutions where young Vologda residents get acquainted with the history of lacemaking and learn the basics of this skill. The Vologda lace company “Snezhinka” is a regular participant in international and Russian exhibitions. The company cooperates with domestic and foreign partners. The most important aspect of the creativity of craft artists is the creation of works for museums and exhibitions. These are mainly panels, curtains, tablecloths. Today we can rightfully say that Vologda lace deserves to be included in the world treasury of lace making.

1.2. Development of lace craft on Vologda land.

In the North, lace probably appeared no earlier than the second half of the 16th century, from the time of the opening of the “northern sea route,” when Vologda became a major trading center, and foreign ships from Europe arrived in the city with goods, including lace. In the 17th century, foreign lace entered the country in large quantities. It becomes a favorite decoration of clothing and household items, a symbol of wealth, nobility and wealth. In the museum collection of the Vologda Museum, the earliest preserved lace also dates back to the 17th century; they are made of gold and silver threads.

In the 17th century, the production of metal lace was organized in Rus', first in the Armory, and later gold lace began to be woven in nunneries, especially in those where the art of facial sewing was developed. There is information that lace was also made in large craft jewelry centers, such as Solvychegodsk.

Metallic lace was woven from spun and twisted gold and silver threads. The strength and elasticity of such lace was given by silk or linen threads, on which metal threads were tightly wound. The price of lace was determined by weight (spools), and not by the complexity and quality of work. Metallic lace (gold) was sewn onto clothes made of dense expensive fabrics; they were used to decorate church items and the clothes of clergy. Common patterns of metal lace were geometric rosettes - “burrs”, “scallops” - motifs in the form of fans, wavy lines - “rivers”, squares placed on the corner (“money”), rectangular corners inscribed into each other (popularly this pattern was called "ship") and tulip-shaped floral motifs. In the 18th century, they began to introduce colored beats into metal lace, which was an exclusively Russian technique.

At the end of the 18th century, thread lace, which came from Western European countries, was in demand in the country. Flemish, Brussels, Dutch lace, French “maline”, “Chantal”, “Brabant”, named after the names of the provinces where lace-making centers were formed, were popular. The fashion for lace contributed to the emergence of lace workshops in the country at noble and landowner estates. At the beginning of the 19th century, the first lace factories were also organized in Vologda. The lace factory of V.A. became famous. Zasetskaya, founded in 1820 in the village of Kovyrino near Vologda. Patterns of foreign origin, fashionable at that time, most often German, were taken as a model.

For a long time, lace weaving was a home activity. Since the first quarter of the 19th century, the art of lace making on Vologda soil has developed into a craft. In the 1840s, Vologda lacemaker Anfiya Fedorovna Bryantseva invented a unique technique for weaving piece products, which was called the “Vologda manner.” Her daughter Sofya Petrovna was considered “the first lacemaker of Vologda”; in the 1840-60s, she taught a new method of making lace products to residents of Vologda and surrounding villages. After the abolition of serfdom (1861), peasant women in Kadnikovsky, Vologda, and Gryazovets districts began to actively engage in lace weaving. The Vologda zemstvo made an attempt to introduce lace weaving in Totemsky, Veliko-Ustyugsky, Velsky and Ust-Sysolsky districts. In the Ust-Sysolsk district, lace was woven only at the Nyuvchim factory by local peasant women, but designs and threads were sent to them from Vologda. However, lace craft did not take a leading place in these centers and did not last long. The main centers were formed near Vologda and in the western regions of the region. The lace of Vologda craftswomen was distinguished by a rich variety of patterns, which were popularly given poetic names: chalk, keys, turtle, fan, porcelain, crow's feet, frosts, stars, spider, Ustyanskaya grater, bows, rose, etc. Ornaments were mostly built from simple or complex geometric shapes: “crenate” rhombuses, crosses, squares, “goosebumps”, ovals, zigzags, crossed hooks, stars made of stitches. Kadnikov lace often contains geometric images of birds standing on the sides of a tree, “peahen birds,” and double-headed eagles. All of these patterns are characteristic of measured paired lace, and plant forms of branches and floral motifs were developed in coupling lace.

With the construction of the Yaroslavl - Vologda railway (1872), and later Vologda - St. Petersburg (1906), the lace industry spread especially quickly. Lace was woven in a variety of segments of the population: peasants, townspeople, nuns, as well as women from the families of clergy. According to statistical data in 1912, the Vologda province accounted for 39.5% of all lacemakers in Russia. However, the earnings of lacemakers were low - 20 kopecks. in a day. Earnings 25 - 30 kopecks. was already considered big. Lacemakers who could make pins and sell them earned a little more. The intensive development of lace making by the population of the Vologda province led to the active use of child labor. The work of girls accounted for 20% of the total number of craftsmen employed in production (10), boys aged 7–15 years (11) accounted for 0.9% of the total number.

1.3. Lace as an integral part of the decoration of dresses and lingerie.

Vologda lace making dates back to the 16th-17th centuries, but as a craft it has existed since the first quarter of the 19th century. Initially, it is believed that lace originated in Europe, and Italy and Flanders are considered the most ancient centers of lace making. The beginning of the craft dates back to 1820, when near Vologda, on the estates of landowners, serfs began to weave trims for dresses and linen, imitating Western European ones. In 1893, in the Vologda province, 4,000 craftswomen were engaged in lace making, in 1912 - 40,000. In 1928, a vocational school for lacemakers was created in Vologda. In 1930, the Vologda Lace Union was created. In 1935 - an art laboratory at the Vologda Lace Union. In the 30s of the last century, images reflecting Soviet reality appeared in lace. Until the 40s. of the last century, measured lace for finishing linen predominated, later piece products became the main ones - runners, napkins, elegant removable parts of women's clothing - collars, frills, capes, scarves, ties and gloves. Lace was also used to decorate and still decorate dresses, tablecloths, napkins and furniture.

Conclusion.

While studying the material for this project work, I learned a lot about Vologda lace, as well as other types of folk art. I recently visited the homeland of Vologda lace, and I really liked it there. We ourselves wove lace with bobbins and at the end of the excursion we were able to purchase bobbins and a pattern for weaving.

Project executor: Adele Sazonova, student of 5th “R” grade Project leaders: O. O. Koroleva, teacher of Russian language and literature Yarinich L. V., computer science teacher Vologda lace

Study the history of this type of fishing. Learn the features of making Vologda lace. To continue Russian traditions and preserve the artistic heritage of past centuries using accessible means. Project goals

While studying history, draw the audience's attention to folk crafts. Tell about the origin and use of Vologda lace. Lace as an integral part of the decoration of dresses and lingerie. Contents of Vologda lace elements. Where is Vologda lace used now? Project objectives:

Vologda lace is a type of Russian lace woven on bobbins (wooden sticks). Distributed in the Vologda region.

Cushion-cushion To make Vologda lace you need: Bobbins - juniper or birch Pins

Pattern. The design is created by a lacemaker or taken from magazines

The beginning of the craft dates back to 1820, when near Vologda, on the estates of landowners, serfs began to weave trims for dresses and linen, imitating Western European ones. History In 1893, in the Vologda province, 4,000 craftswomen were engaged in lace making, in 1912 - 40,000

In the 30s of the last century, images reflecting Soviet reality appeared in lace.

Until the 40s. of the last century, measured lace for finishing linen predominated. Piece products became the main ones - runners, napkins, elegant removable parts of women's clothing - collars, frills, capes, scarves, ties, gloves, etc.

Elements of Vologda lace The basis of the Vologda craft was measured lace. Paired weaving and geometric patterns predominated.

Having chosen one of the well-known motifs (a figure in the form of an angle, an inclined strip with curved ends, a rectangle), they created countless variations of its location in combination with a few other elements. Elements of Vologda lace

In the snow-white patterns of light transparent lace, there are often elements similar to snowflakes and prickly Christmas trees, covered with a white edge.

On November 3, 2010, the Lace Museum opened in Vologda on Kremlin Square, 12. The total area of the museum is 1400 m², and the exhibition area is 600 m².

Internet resources: http://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki http://vologdalace.ru/ http://www.cultinfo.ru/decor/material/krugi/ Books: 1. Vera Dmitrievna Veselova. Lacemaker 2. Elfina-Panteleeva Victoria Nikolaevna 3. Magazine “Bobbin” 4. Gallery of Vologda lacemakers List of references

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