Irish lace dress with patterns. Knitting for beginners
In this article about Irish lace, we will look at the materials and tools for creating it, as well as the technique of making Irish lace using specific examples.
Read more about Irish lace in today's article.
Irish lace is considered an undeniable standard of grace and beauty in the art of knitting.
It consists of individual crocheted motifs that are connected by an openwork mesh.
The fascinating, complex designs of Irish lace arose in the mid-19th century and were appreciated even by crowned heads.
Air patterns were a luxury item and were popular in Paris, London, Rome, and the USA.
To this day, during weddings in European royal families, you can see the bride in a wedding dress decorated with Irish lace.
The modern world of fashion actively uses this handicraft technique to create not only full-fledged wardrobe elements (blouses, skirts, jackets, capes), but also as decoration (collars, cuffs, bodices).
Irish lace remains in demand, despite the labor-intensive work involved in its creation, due to its original beauty, unique designs, and refined femininity of openwork products.
Materials and tools for Irish lace
Irish lace was originally knitted from white silk thread or ecru (yellow-cream) color.
However, with the advent of high-quality linen yarn, craftswomen began to use it for Irish lace. The color palette of products has also been enriched with bright colors.
The use of yarn in a variety of shades and colors, as well as sectionally dyed thread, made Irish lace even more beautiful.
To create Irish lace, you need to select yarn of different thicknesses:
- thick, which is tied in dense columns with a medium thread;
- medium, for knitting the pattern elements themselves;
- thin, for the mesh connecting the entire canvas together.
Stacked Irish lace is crocheted. It is clear that different thicknesses of yarn require different hooks.
It is advisable to have a set of tools from which you can select a hook for any yarn. In addition, when working on Irish lace, you will need blunt needles with large and small eyes, pins, and scissors.
Performance technique
The main elements of Irish lace are natural motifs: flowers, leaves, insects, bunches, rosettes, buds. They are obtained by tying thick frame yarn with medium yarn.
Elements of Irish lace can be voluminous and placed on top of each other.
There are several ways to connect the individual fragments that make up Irish lace into a single fabric. One of the simplest options for assembling Irish lace is to fix the motifs on a finished openwork background.
In this case, first a full-fledged product is knitted in the form of a mesh and the composition is laid out on it. Each element is carefully fixed to the canvas, forming a distinctive Irish lace.
Individual motifs can also be combined into a composition during the knitting process. To do this, the last row of one fragment is knitted into the last row of the other.
If you plan to place several large elements of Irish lace around one small one, then you can make the large ones first, and then the small one, tying it along the edges to the rest.
This method is used if Irish lace is small in size and consists of approximately the same motifs.
According to the traditional technique, only after all the motifs are completed, they are fastened with an openwork mesh. To do this, ready-made steamed elements of Irish lace are fixed on a pre-prepared paper template with the contours of the motifs applied, as well as the lines along which Irish lace should be fastened.
They are placed face down and tied with a regular or, more often, irregular mesh or connected with brids, filling the voids between the fragments.
For ease of use, a template with an Irish lace pattern is secured to a rectangular piece of foam covered with fabric or tape. In this case, the motifs can be easily pinned to the sketch with pins.
Gradually moving the Irish lace on the working surface, the elements are combined into a single fabric.
Background cells can have a regular or irregular geometric shape. In the first case, a regular grid is obtained.
It is used to connect identical or graphic motifs. More typical for Irish lace, the irregular mesh should have irregularly shaped cells.
To do this, when knitting Irish lace, it is recommended to avoid parallel and perpendicular arrangement of cell lines in relation to each other, as well as relative to the boundaries of the motifs.
It is better to start connecting the elements that make up Irish lace in the place where the distance between them is minimal.
The background mesh is knitted from chains of chain stitches, which are attached to the edges of the motifs with double crochets and intersected with half-columns.
An irregular mesh can be complemented with a picot pattern, which makes it more interesting and original. In some places, chains of air loops can be replaced with brids: elongated stitches of threads that are tightly trimmed with a cutwork stitch.
If desired, brids can completely replace the background mesh of typesetting Irish lace.
Irish lace elements
One of the main motifs that decorate Irish lace are leaves. Various trefoils, twigs, single leaves form an integral part of almost any composition made using this technique.
They can be round or pointed, ribbed or smooth, with a smooth or jagged edge.
Leaf with holes
An unusual leaf with holes can be knitted with yarn of different colors or used sectionally dyed. The basis of knitting is the following pattern:
The beauty of this motif is that it can be easily modified. By adding or reducing the amount of air. in the arches and by moving their attachment points, you can get leaves of different shapes.
Description of work:
Dial 20 air. p. Starting from the 2nd p. from the hook, make 3 tbsp. b/n.
The next element is called a “fan”: 1 half stitch, 4 tbsp. s/n, 1 half-st.
Tie 2 p.p. and on the same side of the part, but on the other side air. chains perform 9 tbsp. b/n. make an arch from 7 air. p. and secure it with st. b/n on the 4th loop from the end of the initial chain. Add 1 more tbsp. b/n.
Rotate the part without reaching the end of the initial chain. Make 1 st and knit the next row in the opposite direction.
To do this, knit 3 tbsp. b/n, “fan” with 5 tbsp. s/n, 9 tbsp. b/n to the end of the row. To move to the other half of the sheet, do 3 air. P.
Make 7 tbsp. b/n, 8 air. p. for the arch, fasten st. b/n above the middle of the “fan” located underneath it. Finish the row without reaching the tip of the leaf, 3rd st. b/n.
Volumetric flower
Irish lace cannot be imagined without flowers. Flat and embossed, in several tiers and semi-closed, plain and variegated, tiny and very large flowers are necessarily present in all compositions of printed lace.
A lush three-tiered flower with six rounded petals can be knitted as follows. Closed chain of 7 air. p. tie the 12th st. b/n and close row 1 connection. Art.
Make an arch from 4 air. p. and secure it with 1 tbsp. b/n for the 2nd st. of the previous row. Next, repeat 5 times: arch of 3 air. p. fasten 1 tbsp. b/n (grab both half-loops), skipping one base loop.
Form petals by tying 6 arches: 1 tbsp. b/n, 5 tbsp. s/n, 1 tbsp. b/n.
Turn the part over and, inserting the hook into the base of the first arch, perform 1 tbsp. b/n.
Tie all arches: 1 tbsp. b/n, 6 tbsp. s/n, 1 tbsp. b/n.
Turn the part over again and make similar arches (6 air stitches each) for the third tier.
Then tie them, repeating 6 times: 1 tbsp. b/n, 7 tbsp. s/n, 1 tbsp. b/n.
This flower can be used to fill empty space in a composition.
Master class on freeform
Master class on freeform
from Elena Sinyukova.
The essence of the freeform technique is that anything is possible. There are no restrictions on the color or texture of the yarn, only your taste, sense of proportion and flight of fancy! The basis of any composition in freeform is contrast. Everything here is built on this principle. But not only in color, as we are used to, but also in the combination of convex and smooth areas, areas of sparse fabric (openwork, mesh) and dense knitting, shiny and matte thread. Always trying to carefully select the color scheme in my works, I came to the conclusion that there should be only a warm or only a cold range, you cannot mix them, the result will be bad. Then there must be an idea for the work. What do you want to get out of it? For myself in freeform, I come up with something like a motto, three words that convey the essence of the work, for example: sea-heat-sand; spruce-rain-clearing. Further, all motifs must be of the same style, even different in shape. That is, if these are fantasy motifs, then everything (leaves, circles, squiggles) should be designed in this style. If there is a repetition of natural motifs, then accordingly.
Irish lace is an ancient crochet technique whose history dates back to the 14th century. It was in those times that Irish typeset paintings were born, the relevance of which has not been lost today. On the contrary, products decorated with Irish lace or completely knitted from motifs of this technique reflect current trends in knitted fashion, while at the same time adding a luxurious twist to a woman's look.
Many needlewomen avoid lace crocheted based on Irish motifs, because the work on it is incredibly painstaking and requires the craftswoman to have masterful crocheting skills. However, you shouldn’t shy away from Irish fabrics, the main thing is to try it once, fortunately, today needlewomen are offered a huge number of master classes on knitting products with Irish lace.
The basic principle of Irish lace fabric is to make it from individual motifs (leaves, flowers, openwork cords, paisley cucumbers, other plant elements), which are subsequently combined into a single composition using an openwork mesh (regular or irregular).
Before you start Irish knitting, you need to carefully select the materials: yarn and hook. You need to choose a thread taking into account its stiffness and thickness. To knit Irish lace, it is better to immediately stock up on three types of threads in thickness: thick (for making dense voluminous patterns), medium (for knitting most lace patterns), thin (for tying a future product with a net).
If the lace is knitted from silk or thin cotton yarn, it is better to take a hook with a diameter of no more than 1-1.2 mm, this is the only way to forget about the need to constantly monitor the tightness of the loops. In order to get larger motifs and thick yarn, it is better to use a hook No. 1.5-2.
The pattern of any product made using the Irish lace technique is knitted from motifs that are connected to each other using a thin openwork background (mesh), forming a typesetting fabric.
To get to know Irish lace better, and at the same time practice knitting the most popular motifs, we suggest picking up a hook, thin yarn and following the detailed instructions given in the master classes presented below.
Volumetric three-tiered flower using Irish knitting technique
Volumetric multi-row flowers are one of the most popular motifs in Irish knitting; for many they are an indicator of the use of this technique on the finished product.
This floral element is called “Irish rose”. There are countless variations of the knitting motif, and if you understand the principle of its knitting, then anyone, even a novice needlewoman, can easily modify the shape of a flower, changing the shape of the petals and increasing/decreasing the number of tiers.
The flower is knitted from soft yarn; to make the edge of the petal more rigid, you should crochet a number less than the thickness of the thread, or use a bourdon (a thicker base thread).
Knitting pattern:
Conventional abbreviations in the text:
- VP – air loop;
- runway – lift runway;
- СС – connecting column;
- RLS – single crochet;
- Dc – double crochet;
- C2H – double crochet stitch;
- C3H – double crochet stitch;
- PR – previous row;
- PS – half-column.
1) We collect a chain of 5 VPs, connect them into a circle using a SS, tie the ring with the 8th sc.
2) In each PR loop we knit 2 Dcs - in total you should get 16 Dcs.
3) We knit with rapports: 5 VP + 2 RLS in the next 2 PR loops. We finish the series. We get 8 petals.
4) We make a binding for each petal: 1 sc + 5 sc + 1 sc, in the jumper between the petals - 1 PS.
5) To give the flower volume, the petals are knitted with embossed columns.
Densely arranged petals overlap each other, thereby creating a voluminous effect.
So, we knit the second tier of petals: 7 VP + a relief column, capturing the PR column at work. We repeat the row with rapports until the very end.
6) We tie all the resulting arcs of the second tier with rapports: 1 sc + 7 sc + 1 sc; We knit 1 PS into the loop between the arcs. The second tier is ready:
7) We knit the third tier of petals: an arc of 10 VP + a relief column, capturing the PR column at work. We repeat the row with rapports until the end.
8) We tie each received arc of the third tier with rapports: 1 sc + 10 sc + 1 sc; We knit 1 PS into the loop between the arcs. The third tier is ready:
9) We tie the edges of the petals of the third tier with rapports: 1 PS + 1 VP. The motive is complete!
In order to familiarize yourself with the process of knitting voluminous Irish flowers in real time, we suggest viewing a vibrant selection of video tutorials on floral motifs:
Fantasy leaf with lush columns
Elements of Irish lace such as leaves are in demand no less than floral motifs. They can be very different - both openwork flat and ornate volumetric. We bring to your attention step-by-step instructions for knitting such an original leaf:
Progress
1) We assemble a base chain of 18 VPs (more or less is possible, the actual size of the sheet depends on this).
2) We knit a row of sc along the chain from the VP, but skip the last VP.
3) Turn the knitting over and cast on a chain of 8 VPs.
4) We perform C3H, skipping two loops in the base chain. We do not knit the last stitch of the post and loop.
5) We make eight twists of thread around the column.
6) We drag the main thread through all the entanglements, but in order to get a fluffy column, it is better not to tighten the thread too much.
7) We knit two loose loops together.
8) We collect 3 runways, we do this after each volumetric column.
9) Knit the next C3H, skipping 2 loops at the base of the leaf.
10) We repeat all the steps with entwining the thread around the column. By analogy, we knit two more such lush columns with 8 entanglements.
11) We knit the fifth volumetric column with a double stitch and make 6 twists of thread on it.
12) We knit the sixth column with PS + 5 twists.
13) Finish the row: 5 VP + SS in the last loop of the base of the leaf.
14) We tie the second part of the base of the sheet similarly to the first part, but in the opposite order.
15) We finish with a chain of 8 VP + SS.
16) Then - we tie the arches between the posts - we knit RLS.
17) We collect a chain of 18 VPs, using it to create a leaf stalk.
18) Turn the knitting over, tying the handle with a sc.
19) We tie the leaf itself with the following rapport: 1 SS + 1 VP. Ready!
In Irish technology, there are a huge number of options for knitting leaves, detailed master classes on how to make them can be found in the following videos:
Openwork heart motif
Such an unusual Irish motif will definitely attract attention. It not only gives the Irish canvas incredible relief, but also adds an exquisite gloss to it. The shape of the motif resembles a heart or a horseshoe, and can be used to decorate formal dresses, including evening and even wedding dresses.
Progress
1) We collect a base chain of 16 VPs. Using a SS, wrap the chain into a circle.
2) We tie the circle with 22 sc, inserting the hook inside the circle.
3) Turn the knitting over and cast on 4 VPs. We knit with the “corn” pattern, skipping 2 PR loops. We finish the row with 1 VP + 1 Dc.
4) Turn the knitting over, tie the arches from the VP with the 5th RLS.
5) Turn over and tie next to each other using RLS.
6) The next step is to knit a row of sc, in this case, you need to insert the hook into the back half loop of the PR.
8) We complete the motif by knitting a “crawfish step”.
9) Turn the knitting over to the front side, knit arches of 4 VP along the upper edge. And the last step is to tie them with the 6th sc.
We offer a detailed video tutorial on how to crochet another type of Irish heart:
Fashionable paisley lace motif
Paisley cucumbers are widely used to decorate women's clothing - their curls complement the design of blouses, skirts and dresses. Irish lace offers us an original version of knitting paisley cucumbers - this work is not at all difficult, and the result is breathtaking.
Progress.
1) We collect a base chain of 6 VPs, enclose it in a ring using a SS, and tie the 8th RLS.
3) Close the ring using CC. We knit 4 VPs, skip one DC PR, and knit a SP in the next column.
5) Attach bourdon threads (4-5 threads folded together), tie the entire RLS element.
6) As soon as the knitting has reached the sharp end of the bourdon, cast on 20 sc, connect them in a circle, retreating from the end of the motif by about 6 loops.
7) We continue to tie the sc.
8) We knit the final row with RLS, but with the following repeats: 2 STB + picot from 4 VP.
The cucumber paisley motif in Irish style is ready!
Video master classes on knitting Indian cucumbers using the Irish lace technique:
Irish lace knitting patterns
For professional craftswomen who are fluent in crocheting, we provide a large selection of patterns of Irish motifs:
Undoubtedly, Irish lace is one of the most difficult crochet techniques. In order to master it perfectly, you need days and even months of hard training in knitting lace motifs. However, it is definitely worth it - works made with Irish lace are highly valued not only aesthetically, but also financially.
Note that the Irish lace technique is used for knitting all kinds of women's wardrobe items: light blouses, blouses and tunics, airy sundresses and romantic floor-length dresses, as well as all kinds of accessories - stylish handbags, lacy gloves and exquisite collars. Irish lace also looks interesting in interior decor - they are used to knit openwork napkins and tablecloths, tie vases and even photo frames.
This is always the result of the painstaking work of craftswomen who create openwork works using a crochet hook. These techniques are different, there are many techniques, but the result of the work always amazes and pleases with its beauty, delicacy, and geometric precision of the design. Lace will decorate any outfit, especially if it is made in ethnic style. How are things going with them in Ireland?
This green island has its own handicraft traditions, which in some ways overlap with ours. The ability to use a crochet hook is a prerequisite, and it is common to all lacemakers. In Europe there are some rules that must be followed. They relate to composition, color schemes, size and nature of the design. This is something we have a lot in common with the Irish.
The main rule is the absence of strict restrictions
Irish lace is also an independent form of fine weaving art. A master class on mastering this method in the generally accepted understanding of this term is practically impossible. There is a lot of freedom when creating it, everyone can express their worldview, showing maximum imagination, and there are countless options. There are only general principles and some technological techniques that help weave very beautiful things. Let's take a closer look at them.
How does the technique of Irish lacemakers differ?
To understand the features of this technique, you need to understand what exactly makes Irish lace different. The master class, conducted by specialists, begins with this question. The main difference is that the item is assembled from separate fragments, which are woven using conventional crocheting techniques from threads of different colors. At the same time, the most important condition for success is the author’s sense of composition, balance and color, which is generally manifested in good taste. How to arrange individually woven parts so that the result is a beautiful blouse or top, each craftswoman decides independently, depending on her own understanding of aesthetic goals, mood and, of course, the degree of talent. Having an art education, which is desirable but not required, may also be important. In a sense, amateurism in the art of weaving is preferable; it liberates the flight of imagination.
What is an asymmetrical grid
Even a person not privy to the intricacies of artistic craft understands that any wearable item must be at least to some extent durable. The methods of fastening by which elements of Irish lace are connected are not particularly diverse. This is stitching in cases where the motifs are adjacent to each other closely. If a certain distance is provided between them, then so-called arches made of posts or air loops with different numbers of yarn overs are used. In general, the entire mass of intermediate connection lines forms an entire network, which is conventionally called irregular or asymmetrical. This system is the main feature that distinguishes Irish lace. Schemes, of course, exist in specialized albums, but it is extremely difficult to copy them exactly, and there is no point in doing so. After all, the interest of this type of art lies precisely in the manifestation of individuality and uniqueness. Templates are not acceptable here.
How to plan a composition
Every girl who has ever picked up a hook knows that holding a large object woven from tens of threads in the air and at the same time monitoring the correctness of the work is very difficult. What can we say about such a difficult task as lace. For beginning craftswomen, there is a trick to make the work easier. You can see the future composition and evaluate it by using some thing or piece of material as a substrate. The elements should be basted to this “base” with stitches of medium and long length so that they can be easily removed in the future. By using this auxiliary technique, you can solve several pressing problems at once. Firstly, it will be immediately clear what will happen in the compositional aspect, and therefore, if you don’t like something, there is an opportunity to make corrections with the least amount of effort. And secondly, you don’t have to worry about the correct calculations of the lengths of the connecting arches; in any case, the thing will not bulge or bunch up.
Irish stew
Some of our fellow citizens mistakenly believe that the Irish are “that kind of English.” Saying this is tantamount to saying that “Uzbeks are like Russians.” In fact, the Irish people have a huge number of national characteristics, manifested in their own language, hair color (often red), and names (many Patricks). There is also a rich history and much more, including Irish lace. The motifs that people from the island like to use, both from its independent southern part and from the British north, are traditionally floral. Preference is given to green tones, but other color solutions and shades are also quite acceptable. However, all this goes well with other themes, as well as with wild imagination, mixed with ancient mystical legends.
Get to the point
So, we settled on the fact that a suitable base has been found, for example, an old T-shirt corresponding to a given size (foam rubber or a pillow will also do). Where to begin? The technique allows you to do without tedious calculations of the number of loops; everything can be done by eye, but there is one important feature: in order to make the places of stitching and joining less noticeable, it is best to work from the inside out. Therefore, the elements should be sewn onto the base face down, and only then, after removing the finished item from the backing, turn it inside out again.
The crochet hook is placed in the hand in the same way as a person usually holds a knife, but this rule is common to all lace techniques.
Where to get elements from
If a girl wants to be original and beautiful, but she doesn’t have enough patience to do all the work herself, then you can ease your fate by buying ready-made lace in specialized stores. Since it is most often white, preference should be given to machine-knitted items made from cotton thread, because they can be easily hot-dyed by choosing suitable durable ones. In the same case, if you have the desire and ability to do the whole thing with your own hands, creating a hand-made masterpiece , you should remember all your grandmother’s lessons (if any). Irish knitting is no different from the usual Russian methods of creating thread patterns, at least in the part that does not relate to assembly.
How to create a network
Now about the main thing, that is, how to do it. No special skills other than those possessed by Russian craftswomen are required here. It is important to understand the method of joining, that is, creating the aforementioned irregular mesh. We have identified the features that distinguish Irish lace. The master class involves a description of the sequence of operations, that is, manufacturing technology.
The steps to create an arch consist of the following steps:
Closer to the edge (a couple of threads from it), a working thread is inserted into the fabric.
The thread is pulled towards itself through the loop, and its end is pulled into a small knot, the tip of which is hidden inside the fabric.
A chain of several loops is assembled. It is applied to places of possible articulation in such a way as to find out where to attach it. The result should be pleasing to the eye, so the arch cannot be too short, but you should not get carried away. The best assistant and adviser in this matter is your own taste.
After determining the location of the future connection, two yarn overs are added to the column and two air loops are knitted. All this clings to the fabric of the next lace element, creating a strong connection.
When creating other connecting column elements alternating with chains, their size, measured in loops, should vary depending on the geometry of the elements. The main thing here is to start, and then everything will go by itself.
The best Irish secret
This is how, in general, Irish lace is created. The master class gives only general recommendations, but does not imply strict canons and guidelines. It is very important that in this type of thread weaving there is an irregular mesh in the form of connecting posts and chains. In this case, fragments that are closely adjacent to each other can simply be neatly stitched using a dot method.
But the main thing in this weaving method is not the technical details and technological subtleties. A craftswoman who has mastered the main principle will be able to understand Irish lace. It lies in the degree of freedom to which the inhabitants of the “Green Island” have strived throughout its centuries-old history. It also manifests itself in other cultural principles of the Irish, who strive to express themselves in all ways available to them.
The elements can be large, small or alternate, it doesn’t matter. The color scheme can be green, but other shades are also quite acceptable, the main thing is that it is beautiful.
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